A ganache is simply chocolate and a liquid homogenized to form a paste or liquid.  Ganaches can be hard enough to cut and hold their shape (dipped chocolates), or soft enough to enrobe a cake (sacher cake glaze) depending on the ratio of liquid to chocolate.  The liquid (or liquids) used can virtually anything from water, to fruit puree, to most commonly milk or cream. Ganches are a cornerstone of the pastry world and making a perfect one is often a test given to commis pastry cooks in a similar way to cooking a perfect omelette is given to commis cooks.

The principles are quite simple. Half melt your chocolate, scald your liquid(s), pour one third over at a time and emulsify with the stick blender (or for those with too much time on their hands, a whisk).  Just like using the stick blender at any time, it is important to use a deep container.   Also, since you are working with chocolate make sure you don’t incorporate any air.  If you aren’t sure as to how stiff you want a ganache, make a stiffer one with less liquid than you think you will need, and slowly add you liquid till you get the correct consistency.  Keep in mind that your ganache will be stiffer once cold and can be warmed to thin as needed.  Finally, once homogenized, let your ganache set up in the fridge overnight to achieve crystallization.

When you are making a chocolate brulee or any kind of chocolate anglaise, achieving a completely smooth texture in the final product can be tricky, but there is a way to do it.

The trick is to half melt your chocolate; essentially meaning that some of your chocolate is melted, but there are still some lumps of unmelted, but hot chocolate.  Half melting will heat your chocolate up enough that it will melt completely when your cream is added but still leep some of the stable cocoa butter crystals needed to make a perfect emulsion.

If you fully melt your chocolate, there are no tempered cocoa butter crystals left to remain stable, and that can affect the texture of the final product.  If totally unmelted your chocolate may not fully melt out with the heat of the liquid and might require further heating to do so, which greatly increases the risk of scalding, burning and curdling.

With your chocolate half melted, take 1/3 of your hot liquid (for an angliase, this can be done before or after  re-cooking as long as it is still warm enough to melt the chocolate the rest of the way), and pour it over all the chocolate.  Let it sit for about a minute, and then with your immersion blender, tying not to incorporate any air, emulsify your mixture.

It will be tricky and depending on the ratio of liquid to chocolate, tough on your blender, but do what you can before adding the next 1/3.  Repeat the process and you should be left with a totally smooth emulsion ready to be baked or served.

Whineo's on Urbanspoon

Whineo’s on Granville bills itself as a “Wine bar”, which should have been my tipoff that the food comes secondary to the drinks.

In the midst of a recession, and Granville street torn up due to Canada Line construction, Victoria and I thought we would check out one of Vancouver’s many patio-less restaurants on a sunny Monday evening – when independent places desperately need business.

To give Whinoes a try, we decided to sample a selection of their appetizers, mains, and desserts.

Appetizers

Wild mushroom risotto cakes

These arrived tepid, and were quite bland.  It was probably my fault that I didn’t enjoy these, as I was expecting the battered and fried variety full of rich and creamy risotto.  These were just sticky, bland risotto stuck into ring molds.

Maccaroni and Cheese

Once again, arrived cold.  Was slightly underseasoned, but was a decent homestyle mac n’ cheese.

Entrees
NY Strip (If I recall…)

Steak ordered medium rare arrived half blue, half well done.  The flavour was great, and it had a nice crust.  Ordered with a ‘lobster tail’, which was fairly overcooked for what was basically a 2-4 count prawn.  It just needed to kiss the grill to be done, but this one arrived charred, curled, and dry.

East Coast Lobster Dinner

It was billed as an ‘East Coast Lobster Dinner’ but it felt….lacking.  A side salad, 3 somewhat split mini lobster tails (just as rubbery as Chris’) and a dinner roll.  The menu didn’t lie at all though it does mention ‘paprika mayo’, which was as I recall minimal and what little was there sat under the shell of the lobster tails meaning if I had wanted to eat it, I would have needed to suck the shells….hmmm…pass.

The spinach salad was fine, nothing to write home about, but a decent salad, and the roll was, a room temp bought in white roll.

The thing that annoyed me most other than the fact that the lobster was overcooked, was that it was near impossible to eat.  The shells weren’t split all the way and the knife I was given was quite dull, I can’t help think that if I had been able to pry the meat from the shell sufficiently, I wouldn’t have been so hungry at the end of the meal.

Desserts

Chocolate apple tart

Not even remotely worth the cheap price of $6.50.  Bottled chocolate sauce on some phyllo pastry with a quarter of a diced apple and a scoop of ice cream.  Seriously, they couldn’t even put more than a quarter of an apple on it? An apple costs 30 cents.  This was a disappointment.

Deconstructed cheesecake

Acceptable, but flawed.  Served with some small pieces of biscotti to dunk, you get a boat of cheesecake-like filling and berry compote.  Too rich, not enough compote, and the few biscotti weren’t enough, or thin enough to be pleasant.

Would I go there again?  Probably.  It seems like their kitchen is very small, and its always possible that the cook was having an off day.  It was a slow night for them, so there were no servers; only the bartender doing double duty, so I can forgive the cold food.  If I do go back, I’ll be skipping dessert.

Victoria’s Update: Overall, I was pretty dissapointed too, but the 3.50 raspberry mojito drink special somewhat made up for it.  The service could be forgiven for being somewhat slack as the only guy was busy, but there weren’t that many people eating, so there was no excuse for the food being so bad.

One thing most people don’t know is that in chocolate there is a small amount of starch, which when even a drop of water is added to it will become thick and paste-like.  It is for this reason that when working with chocolate in a liquid form to make sure that absolutely no water comes into contact with it.

This is especially problematic when melting chocolate in a bowl over hot water.  The steam from the water hits the cooler base of the bowl, condenses and becomes water drops, which can work their way into the chocolate bowl at a later stage.  It’s best to wipe the base of the bowl onto a towel right after you remove it from the melter.

The starch in chocolate can be used to your advantage sometimes.  When writing with chocolate, you can add a drop of water (literally 1 drop, to up to 1cup of melted chocolate), this will make the chocolate run out of the piping bag more slowly and  form a more stable strand, enabling more control of your chocolate writing.

Tempering in kitchen terms means bringing an item to a usable temperature. In pastry tempering can have a couple of more specific definitions.  One referring to the method of heating and cooling chocolate to specific temperatures to select certain characteristics, and the other to a method of adding a hot liquid to some form of egg without cooking the egg.
Tempering Custards:

The method of tempering using a hot liquid and eggs is a lot simpler, requires no special equipment and for most people is a lot more useful, so that’s where I’ll start.

Tempering is used when making a creme brulee, or other custard such as creme anglaise, or creme caramel, but also for certain recipes of butter tarts and pecan pies.  The technique of tempering is basically slowly adding the hot liquid, whether it be cream, or caramel, or whatever, while constantly whisking to distribute the heat, thus raising the temperature of the eggs above that which they could go normally without cooking.  This is easy to do with a helper, but slightly more troublesome alone.  With one hand to pour, and one hand to whisk that doesn’t leave a hand to hold the bowl while you whisk.  One trick to to take a wet towel, twirl it around by one corner (as if you were going to flick it at someone) and place that in a ring around the base of the bowl.  This will leave you with one hand to pour and one hand to whisk.  A good rule of thumb is to add 10% on the first pour, make sure that that is well mixed, add another 20%, again whisking, then you can add the remaining in 1-2 additions.  The whole mix should now be warmer than the eggs should be able to get without cooking, but should be smooth.

An alternative method if you’re not comfortable with the all-in-one method above is to take a few spoonfuls of the hot liquid to your eggs while mixing, then slowly add the now warmed eggs into the hot liquid as above.

Now on to the chocolate technique.

Tempering Chocolate:

The basic principles are that inside the cocoa butter in chocolate six types of crystals can be formed.  Of the six, only two provide desirable characteristics.  Have you ever melted chocolate for coating or dipping and had streaks form on the surface shortly after, or the chocolate doesn’t set up at all?  To prevent this, pretty much the only thing you can do is to temper the chocolate before you use it.

Each individual chocolate formula differs from company to company and from product to product and thus requires slightly different tempering temperatures.  The basic technique remains the same for all varieties, however.

First you raise the temperature, melting the chocolate, then the chocolate is cooled, possibly with the addition of finely chopped or chipped pre-tempered chocolate, and the whole mix is then re-warmed.  There is extensive information online about the types of crystals and their characteristics, but it’s all a bit technical to go into here.

For the 3 main types of chocolate there are some rough temperatures (in C) to use as a guideline:
Dark: 45-50, 27-28, 31-32
Milk: 45-50, 26-27, 30-31
White: 45-50, 26-27, 30

All chocolate is pre-tempered when you buy it, and you can use this to your advantage if you chose to temper it.

© 2012 Culinary Tips Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha